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January 31, 2008

Used car shoppers – here’s some valuable advice

Filed under: Car Buying Help, Used Cars — Tags: , , — admin @ 6:51 pm
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If you are shopping for a used car there is one tool that stands out head and shoulders above all others, it’s called CARFAX.  CARFAX is an inexpensive service that provides you with the following information:

  • Title Check
  • Odometer Check
  • Vehicle History
  • Registration Information

A CARFAX report helps you get a glimpse of a car’s history and today that is more critical than EVER!  If you are shopping for a used car you need to be aware that there are thousands, if not tens of thousands of used cars on the market today that went through Hurricane Katrina.  Cars, trucks and SUVs from the Gulf Coast have been bought and sold to all corners of the US and beyond. 

A CARFAX report (available at carfax.com) will assist you in finding out if a car was re-registered, re-titled or had a vin number change.  But you need to be careful, after the hurricane when many of these cars were bought and sold they acquired new titles and sometimes new vin numbers from very unscrupulous people who are looking to sell people cars that are ruined and not fit for the road.

So what do you do?  Start with the CARFAX report and if ANYTHING does not add-up or make sense, move on to another car.  For example, if the odometer reports are off (no car loses mileage, its not like weight or if it reports only 112 miles for the year, that would send up a red flag to me).  Also, if there are gaps in the car’s history or records in ANY manner I suggest you look for another car. If your response to this is, “but it’s a great deal,” think again.  You might not be looking at a car; you might be looking at a HUGE headache!     

Used car shoppers need to also closely inspect any new car that they are considering buying.  It is possible for a car to go through significant flood damage and its CARFAX report might not inform you of any problems (some crooks will always know how to fool the system).  So, before you buy a used car, if you can not have a mechanic that you trust look at the car, I strongly suggest you do the following:

  • Look for a slit (dirt line) in the trunk, door jams, foot wells and engine compartment
  • Look for signs of rust (any rust inside should send up a big red flag)
  • Look at electrical connections for signs of corrosion. 

In closing, shop smart and if the deal looks too good to be true, be extra careful!

January 30, 2008

During the Super Bowl they are going to try and help you buy a car

Filed under: Car Buying Help — Tags: , , , , , , — admin @ 7:08 pm
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I don’t know if you’re rooting for the Giants or the Patriots but, while the whole world is watching one of the most anticipated football games in history, there is going to be two commercials for a company that claims to be the best resource for you the car shopper.  The company is Cars.com and they will have two different commercials running in the 1st and 3rd quarters of Super Bowl XXLII. 

Now I have never been a person that recommended Cars.com to people as a resource for their car buying needs.  There’s one fundamental reason for this, I view them as being in-partnership with car dealers.  I feel this way because car dealers pay Cars.com for ‘leads’.  For a car dealer, a lead from cars.com is someone who has visited their web site, indicated that they want to buy a car and that person’s information is sold to the appropriate car dealers near the shopper.  If car dealers are the people who pay you, how can you be an advocate for the car buyer?  Car dealers around the country pay Cars.com millions of dollars a year.  Now answer this question for me, if you are cars.com and car dealers are your customers, is there anything more important for your business than these car dealers being satisfied with your product (the leads you sell them)?  So, would it be in your best interest to help people who come to your web site, the people who become your product (leads), get the best price from your customers, the car dealers?  If this question was poised to me I would have to respond, “No, it is not in cars.com’s best interest to help car buyers get the best price possible, in fact it would be bad for their business.” 

Now what I am saying about cars.com can also be stated for Autobytel, Autotrader, Car.com, Stoneage and many other web sites.  In my opinion, any web site that relies on car dealers to make their money can not have the car shopper’s best interests in mind!  Financially it doesn’t make sense. 

Now, I will tell you that after the Super Bowl I will post on this blog, a full review of cars.com.  Let’s see their ads in the Super Bowl along with the changes to their web site and if I think they now offer you, the car shopper a good resource I will be happy to add them to my list of recommended web sites.  

January 28, 2008

Why did you choose that car?

Filed under: Car Buying Help — Tags: , , , — admin @ 6:30 pm
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I read an interesting survey today that looked at the reasoning people gave for choosing their present vehicle.  The sampling size was not great, but I found the answers surprising and interesting.  The demographics of the survey were 66% female, 34% male.  Age seemed broken out fairly evenly, between 26 years of age and up.  The answers people gave were very interesting.  For instance, the top two responses given for the reason they chose their present vehicle were: It’s cheap to run and I needed a bigger car.

These responses certainly make sense, but I am surprising that nobody responded with answers like: the price of the car, the deal they were able to get or the perceived quality of the vehicle.  WOW, I am under the assumption that the deal or the car’s quality are important to a sizable number of people. 

So, in an effort to get a better feel for the mindset of today’s car shopper I am going to ask my loyal readers to give me some feedback.  So let me ask you:

Why did you choose to purchase your latest vehicle? 

  Email me your answer at:  insider@autoinsidertips.com

And I’ll share the best responses in a future blog. Let me know your opinion,

The Auto Insider

January 27, 2008

How to avoid losing your shirt during the F&I process

Filed under: Car Buying Help, Dealerships — Tags: , , , , , — admin @ 9:42 pm
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One of the most common mistakes car shoppers make is assuming that once they have settled on a price for their car with the sales staff they think they have completed the car buying process and that’s not the case.  Car shoppers who relax now and let your guard down often… lose their shirt!  That’s because for 99% of car buyers once you have settled on your car and the price you need to enter the F&I office or the F&I process.  The reason every car buyer needs to be careful is because once you are in the F&I office you can quickly and painlessly loose thousands of dollars. 

For those of you not familiar with the term, F&I is an acronym for Financing and Insurance.  In car dealerships the F&I department is one of several under-the-radar profits centers, and has been for decades.  Since today most people do not use a dealership for gaining auto insurance this department is focused on generating income off of you in a couple of ways:

  • Making money off of you by bumping your finance rate – when you fill out a credit application at a car dealership they will receive a finance rate from their banks for you, then they will attempt to add ‘points’, additional money for themselves.  Let’s say you are approved by a dealer’s bank for a $30,000 new car loan at 5.9% financing.  The F&I department will attempt to add points by telling you that you are approved for a loan with an interest rate of 7.9% or 9.9%, whatever number they can legally bump your rate and think you’ll fall for!  The car dealer likes to make money, sometimes big money just for being the middleman in this auto loan, don’t let them.  Smart shoppers know what they can get financed for before ever entering the F&I department.  That way the F&I department can only improve their finance rate, NOT make money off it (I’ll touch on this more in a moment). 
  • Selling you an extended warranty or wrap around warranty  - extended warranties can be a very good idea if you are planning on keeping your new vehicle for a number of years  And a wrap around warranty which is designed to protect you against potential expenses not covered by the manufacturer’s warranty is often useful.  The problem with buying either of these warranties from a dealer’s F&I department is the cost.  Unfortunately I have found that if you are willing to do as little as five minutes of research on the internet for either of these types of warranties you will find coverage as good if not better than the dealer’s at hundreds sometimes thousands of dollars less!
  • Ancillary Products – The list of possible products you might be offered by an F&I department are endless.  Some of the classics are undercarriage spray protectant, vin number etching and paint sealant.  Regardless of the product, I’ve found that if it is offered in the F&I office it is either completely pointless and unnecessary like vin etching and paint sealant or a complete rip off, something so shady that the company offering the useless product and the dealer selling it should both serve jail time (a product like the undercarriage spray).

So what should you do in the F&I office?  Simple, this is usually were you will sign all the paperwork necessary to complete the car buying process.  Additionally, as I mentioned earlier you can potentially get better financing from a dealer than you will from an outside bank.  That is because car manufacturers will sometimes offer sub-vented financing, financing made extremely low to entice people to buy their car.  Examples are 0% financing, 1.9% or 2.9%, these rates are below prime rate and no bank would have an incentive to match these rates like the manufacturer has (the need to sell the car to create the loan).  But, you need to be careful, sub-vented financing is usually available in lieu of (instead of) some or all rebates.  If this is the case you need to determine if financially it is better for you to use the rebates and get your financing on your own or to give up the rebates for sub-vented financing.  A visit to KBB.com with the rebate and financing information will allow you to determine which offer, the rebates or low financing is best for you.  Other than that, I unfortunately must inform you that I know of nothing available in the F&I department that is worth what you will pay for it.  Products from a dealer’s F&I department, almost without exception always come with HUGE mark-ups designed to fatten the dealership’s bottom-line. 

            In closing, if you are smart and know how to navigate the F&I department you should avoid being bamboozled into buying any ridiculous items or paying far too much for a useful product.  But, there is one practice that F&I departments who are truly the lowest of the low may attempt to pull on you, it’s called Bushing and it is an attempt to get additional money from you AFTER you have take your car home!  If you EVER get a call from the dealer requesting that you return to the dealership and sign additional papers or that there is a problem with your car loan your dealer and their F&I department might be attempting to ‘bush’ you and I have information that specifically addresses this awful practice and you can learn more about this here.  I go into all the details there, but rest assured you do not want to be subject to such a horrible and expensive scam!  So be smart, know what you need and the F&I department won’t leave you shirtless!

January 25, 2008

Shopping for a car this weekend, here’s what you need to know

Filed under: Car Buying Help — Tags: , , , — admin @ 6:16 pm
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If you are shopping for a car this weekend let me provide you with some valuable information.  Everything I hear and read tells me new car sales are HORRIBLE for January and dealers are hoping to ‘make their month’ this weekend.  This means you have a great buying opportunity now!

Phil LeBeau who writes ‘Behind the Wheel’ on CNBC’s web site has a great article about the current car buying environment and in my opinion it is a must-read for anyone planning on walking into a car dealership this weekend.  And no, I’m not suggesting this just because Phil was so kind to give me, the AutoInsider a shout-out in his column today.  The points Phil makes in his column echo everything I see, that due to poor sales car dealers across the country are ready, willing and desperate to sell you a car this weekend.  So if you are car shopping why not take advantage of this situation!How bad is it out there?  A dealer told me today that a manufacturer called him today asking, “What’s going on, what can we do to increase sales?”  Let me shed some light on why a dealer is getting that phone call today.  A look at this month’s new car sales figures, for virtually every auto manufacturer, is not a pretty picture.  On a call today I heard up-to-the-minute sales figures that were so low that if I did not have a calendar on my desk I would have assumed that we were talking about the 10-day close (car sales for the 1st 10 days of the month).  Sales are so low that people in the car business almost can not believe that today is January 25th!!!!!!  So if you are car shopping this weekend, use this knowledge to get a GREAT price on your next new car! 

January 24, 2008

Is this a good time to buy a car?

Filed under: Car Buying Help — Tags: , , , — admin @ 5:44 pm
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I read an interesting column written on CNBC’s web site.  The column is ‘Behind the Wheel’written by Phil LeBeau.  He posses the question, is this a good time to buy a car?  I think it is a great question and here’s my response that I emailed to Phil. Hi Phil, I have a blog that provides people with car buying advice.  I go by the name Auto Insider because I work closely within the industry and it would not be in my best interest to divulge my identity because I attempt to give advice from my ‘inside’ perspective.  To address your question, yes I think it is a good time to buy a car… if you need to be in the market.  With the volatility of the U.S. economy I recommend that everyone curb their spending in every way possible and that would include buying a new car, except if it is truly unavoidable.  Cars are like most other consumer products, they are a necessity and if your car is no longer able to provide safe transportation you must buy another one.  So if you truly need a car, I think it is a great time to buy.  Yes, I agree that if you judge the car buying market by incentives it does not look so attractive, but I see a willingness by dealers to discount cars to levels never before seen. 

As an example, just yesterday I had a dealer who is ranked in the top 10 nationally for sales express real frustration over a competitor’s advertised pricing structure.  That competitor had a car advertised on their web site $300 behind cost!  They are advertising a car with a price discounted deep into holdback.  To quote my dealer, “where are they going with that pricing?”  My dealer was so upset he called his competitor and asked what his rational was for advertising a car’s price so deep into holdback and the response he got was; we’re hoping to catch a trade.                  My take on the current car buying climate is that if you do your homework and negotiate properly you will be able to get a fantastic price.  In fact, if you use the dealer’s actual cost for the car you are buying as a measuring stick, I think the average car buyer can get a better price now than any time in history!  Thanks for your column and allowing me to give you my “two-cents” The Auto Insider It’s a great column and if you like what I have to say about the car business be sure to checkout Phil’s column, ‘Behind the Wheel’ on CNBC’s web site.  

January 23, 2008

Buying a car? What you should do first

Filed under: Car Buying Help — admin @ 4:29 pm
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            If you asked a hundred people this question you might get a hundred different answers.  Well, as the Auto Insider I get the opportunity to give quite a few friends and acquaintances the answer to this question and now I will give you my thoughts on this subject.  I believe that you need to use the internet to help you find your next car, but you need to use it smartly.

            Today there are countless web sites out there that offer you reviews on virtually every make and model available to you.  Use these sites, understand that everyone can and will have an opinion so don’t assume that anyone is telling the gospel, but if you do your research you will see trends.  For instance Mazda has been receiving an incredible amount of positive press over the last year.  When a car or manufacturer receives so much independent praise you can rest assured that they have quite a bit to offer you.

            Of course there’s no substitute to seeing a car first-hand so you will need to touch, feel and drive a car before you can say for sure that it’s the right one for you.  But, I tell people all the time, go on-line and see what car appears to offer you the most for your money.  You need to find a car with the features and options you desire.  You need to find the car that will fit your lifestyle.  And of course you need to find the car that fits your budget and you can do all this on-line.  Do your research, shop hard, shop smart and get your best deal.

Thinking about buying a certified used car, DON’T

Filed under: Car Buying Help — Tags: , , — admin @ 12:04 am
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You can always count on the auto industry to create new and catchy marketing terms.  A couple of years back Employee Discount Pricing became all the rage.  Today I was reading an article about how car manufacturers are going to put an emphasis on certified used car sales in 2008, so in an effort to ensure my readers are always informed here’s the facts on certified used car programs.

First let’s take a look at certified used car sales in 2007.  As I’ve mentioned in many posts, it helps to know historical trends when you are putting your game plan together to buy a car.  In 2007 certified used car sales rose 2.1% nationally to over 1.6 million units.  17 different brands set sales records in 2007.  So obviously there is a trend towards certified used cars and the auto industry is going to push used car certification hard in 2008.

Most of the certified used car programs contain similar features and benefits so I’m going to examine GM’s program (since they sell the most) and you should be able to apply my opinions and suggestions to virtually any manufacturer’s certified used program.  With General Motors Certified Used Program you receive:

·        100,000 mile/5-year power-train limited warranty

·        3-month/3,000 mile new vehicle limited warranty extension

·        117-point inspection

·        Vehicle history report

·        Low financing

·        3-day/150 mile satisfaction guarantee

Now there is certainly value for the above, but the problem with certified used programs is they OVER-CHARGE for the program!  Boy I bet you are surprised, who would have thought a car dealership would overcharge their customers for a product or service!  For a Certified Used Car it is not unusual for a new car dealership to add an additional $2,500 to $4,500 to the price of the used car for all of the above.  So is it worth it, let’s take a look at the real cost for the above:

·        Warranty – GM’s warranty is not a bumper-to-bumper.  In fact it is very limited.  I’ve looked closely at the GM and Ford warranties and I am not impressed with what they offer.  On line in 5 minutes I got a quote for better warranties ranging in the $1,400 to $2,000 range without even trying.

·        New Vehicle Extension – 3 months, 3,000 miles why bother, there’s no value here!

·        117 Point Inspection – any dealer should have been doing this long before the term certified new was ever created.  The dealer is making thousands of dollars of profit on the car, do I really have to pay him more to ensure the car is not in need of repairs?

·        Vehicle History Report – Carfax offers unlimited vehicle reports for $29.99 – it’s probably who GM uses!

·        Low Financing – something that existed before the term certified used was coined.  Don’t be fooled, the finance savings are a drop-in-the-bucket compared to the high cost of certification!

·        3-day/150 mile Guarantee – some states mandate this.  If this buyer’s remorse clause is not in your state you are probably covered by a Lemon Law that would assist you in returning a car that broke-down in 3 days!

So, when you look at the certified used car program there’s not nearly enough value in the program.  Just like we suspected, the manufacturer and the dealer are making thousands of dollars on unsuspecting certified used customers! 

If you don’t believe me, would you believe a dealer?  As the Auto Insider I have dealers divulge the real story about things to me every day.  A short time ago I had a dealer tell me a story about a conversation he had with another dealer at a 20 Group (a 20 group is a meeting where a group of dealers go and exchange ideas).  At the 20 group a dealer told his peers how he made it a company policy to require that every (insert the brand of the vehicle they sell – in our example we used Chevy – here) that can be certified gets certified… no exclusions.  This dealer went on to explain how his profits skyrocketed.  Some of the dealers in attendance, like my acquaintance were amazed that customers did not balk at the forced certification (once a dealer certifies a car they can not un-certify it – once they certify it the manufacturer their certification money), he answered proudly that not one person complained!  I bet every dealer in that meeting rushed home with this new way to put tens of thousands of dollars in their pockets every month!

            So what should you do?  Simple, do not buy a certified used car.  You can buy vehicle reports, extended warranties and the like on-line for a fraction of the cost.  Some certified used programs offer road-side assistance, if you’d like that call AAA.  Save money and ‘certify’ your next used car yourself!   

January 21, 2008

When you are car shopping use every bit of leverage you can

Filed under: Car Buying Help — Tags: , , , , , , — admin @ 7:08 pm
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When you enter the car buying process it is important to identify all your advantages and use them as leverage in negotiating the best price possible.  It sounds obvious, but I hardly ever see shoppers take advantage of things that are right in front of them.  Here’s an example of a great leverage point many shoppers ignore, if you are shopping for a domestic vehicle there are too many dealers and you can use this to your advantage.

The domestic car makers, General Motors, Ford and Chrysler all agree that they have too many dealers.  In fact, domestic car makers over the last couple of years have done everything they can do legally to reduce their number of dealers, yet there is still a huge discrepancy.  Right now in the United States there are five domestic dealers for every one import dealer (the heaviest concentration in the Northeast). 

Look at the two biggest sellers; Chevy has more than 4,000 dealers around the country while Toyota has only 1,244 dealers and they sell approximately the same number of cars.  When you analyze sales at the dealer level the numbers are frightening (if you are a domestic dealer).  Here’s the average number of cars a dealer sold last year by make:

Chevy dealers sold an average of 554 cars

Ford dealers sold an average of 556 cars

Dodge dealers sold an average of 374 cars

Toyota dealers sold an average of 1,766 cars

Honda dealers sold an average of 1,346 cars

So if you are a Honda or Toyota dealer you on average sell between 3 to 5 times more cars than your domestic counterparts.  That is a HUGE sales discrepancy!  Car dealers of old would refer to a new car sale as ‘1st blood’ because they make money selling them: the new car, then they expect to make money from the customer in the service and parts departments, then they expect to make even more money off that customer when they trade their car in for an other new car in a couple of years (making money on the trade-in and the eventual re-sale).  So believe me, it’s a huge deal for Honda and Toyota to outsell their Chevy, Ford and Dodge competitors by such a wide margin because it equates to a gigantic difference in profits!

            Now, here’s how you use this to your advantage.  If you are shopping for a domestic car make sure you shop several dealerships.  And when you are speaking to the dealers let them know that you are shopping them.  By nature these are competitive people and they know they can not afford to let any sale get away.  Shopping a domestic auto dealership allows you to make the biggest decision, setting the car’s price (in most cases they won’t lose money selling you a car, but they will discount it greatly for a real buyer).  Be smart, shop hard and save a ton of money!   

January 20, 2008

Can I really lease that car in the newspaper for that price?

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Leasing represents one of the most difficult concepts for most consumers to understand.  So it’s no surprise that car dealerships love to use lease prices in their ads to confusion people and make their prices appear incredibly low.  Don’t feel bad if you have trouble understanding the leasing process, I’ve spoken to people with MBA’s who could not decipher a lease payment in a car dealer’s newspaper.  So, as the auto insider let me show you how to easily estimate what the real monthly lease payment would be for a car advertised in a car dealer’s newspaper ad. 

First allow me to bust your bubble, if you are reading your local paper and you see an ad for a car you like, with a monthly lease price you can afford odds are you can not bring that ad to the dealership, sign a couple of papers and drive away with the car you want with the payment you saw in the newspaper.  Sadly it does not work that way. I can not say with 100% certainly that there is not a dealer anywhere that advertises accurate lease prices, but I feel comfortable telling you virtually every advertised car lease payment is significantly lower than what you would be quoted when you are sitting in that dealership.    

To prove this point I’ve randomly selected an ad from my newspaper, picked a car and I’ll show you how to get a car’s REAL lease price.  The car I have selected is a 2008 Mazda CX-9 All Wheel Drive Sport Edition.  This car recently won the 2008 Motor Trend SUV of the year and it’s a beautiful car.  From the description in the newspaper ad it is nicely equipped and the lease price is $229 per month for 24 months!  WOW, according to this ad I could be driving home this afternoon in one of the best cars available ANYWHERE and only have to pay $229 per month.  Heck, at first look I can drive this CX-9 for 2 years and it will cost me less than $5,500 ($229 X 24 months)!! For a deal like this I should run, not walk to that dealership. 

Let’s take a minute to see if this $229 lease price is… accurate.  Now I’ve ripped the ad out of the paper and I am sitting in front of my computer.  Looking at the ad the lease price is a big, bold number that I can see from across the room.  But, there should be other numbers in the ad that are printed in near microscopic type that we need to help us check what it will really cost me to lease this car.  These numbers are usually located in one of two places, the smaller type directly under or on the side of the picture of the car; these numbers are included with the vehicle’s description.  Information like the number of cylinders and doors the car has, does it have air conditioning (A/C) etc are called the car’s description and in this area you may find some important figures.  The second place you need to look for key figures is in the disclaimer.  The disclaimer is usually at the very bottom of the advertisement.  To find it hold the ad away from you at arm’s length and look for two or more lines of very small type running the entire width of the ad (if the disclaimer is not at the very bottom, it is usually contained in the bottom 1/3 of the ad).  From the vehicle’s description and the ad’s disclaimer you should be able to find the following:

·        Vehicle’s sale price – very seldom do they list this in ads, but they will list the MSRP and we can use this number.

·        Cash down and/or trade-in amount – these numbers are often referred to as money down, trade or down payment.  If the only figure they give you is the total due at signing or amount due at inception, this figure includes any down payment or trade-in amount plus any bank fee or security deposit.

·        Bank fee & security deposit – you’ll want to gather these figures if they are not rolled into the total due at signing.

·        Residual or purchase option – this is the calculated worth at lease end.

·        Lease term – this is the number of months your lease will cover, in the CX-9 ad it’s a  24 month lease.

·        Miles per year – this is the number of miles per year your lease allows before you must pay an overage penalty.  Sometimes this number is broken out by year, in my ad it’s 10,500 miles per year.  Other times dealers list it as the total mileage allowed, if they did that in my ad it would read 21,000 miles (10,500 miles x 2 – remember, it’s a 24 month lease).

 

 OK, now that you’ve identified all the numbers we need we can figure out what my REAL monthly payment would be for this CX-9.  To get the real lease price I an going to use Edmunds.com, they have a great lease calculator.  Go to Edmunds and select ‘New Car’, then click on ‘latest incentives’ and put in the car you are interested in (I am shopping a 2008 Mazda CX-9 AWD Sport) if there are any incentives record that number.  Now click the back button on your browser and go to the ‘Financing’ page then select ‘Basic Lease’.  When you are on the basic lease page you will need to re-enter the type of car you are interested in leasing. 

Once you select a vehicle they will automatically calculate a price for you.  But, to get an accurate calculation you need to enter the proper numbers we found in the dealer’s newspaper ad.  So you need to make the appropriate adjustments based on the information found in the newspaper ad to get the most accurate calculation:

·        Vehicle Sales Price – if it is not listed in the ad put the MSRP in here

·        Sales tax – when I inputted by zip code (Edmunds asks for this it automatically calculated this for me – a very nice feature)

·        Title registration and other costs – they input a figure for you – not sure how accurate this number is, but it works fine for our purposes

·        Customer rebate – if you found a rebate insert it here

·        Trade-in – insert this figure here if there was a number in the newspaper ad.  If you use this field be sure to put $0 down for a pay off

·        Lease term – the number of months the lease is advertised for

·        Lease residual value – if the ad does not have a figure Edmunds puts in a default number.  I had the residual, but it was nice to see that Edmunds figure would have been close enough to use had the dealer not disclosed it in the ad.

·        Money factor – Edmund’s provides this

·        Miles per year – as mentioned, in my ad it is 10,500 miles.

·        Acquisition fee – use the number in the ad or Edmund’s default

·        Security Deposit – use the number in the ad or Edmund’s default

  Now that you have inputted these numbers press calculate.  Remember, my monthly payment in the newspaper ad is $229 per month.  After plugging in all the numbers Edmunds calculates my monthly payment for a 2008 Mazda CX-9 AWD Sport to be $529.36.  A $300 per month difference!  If you’re wondering why there is a HUGE discrepancy between the advertised price and the Edmunds price, let’s look deeper into the newspaper ad to shed some light, although I think anyone (who’s not a car dealer) would agree that this is disgrace to advertise cars with such deceptive pricing!  To begin with, virtually every car ad excludes the tax along with any and all fees.  The Edmunds price includes these costs.  As I mentioned, the selling price I used is not 100% accurate because I had to use the car’s MSRP in my calculation because the actual selling price is not disclosed in the ad.  So let’s say I’m a great negotiator and I’m able to get this dealer to lease me a 2008 Mazda CX-9 AWD Sport at invoice (in another section on Edmunds.com you can find this information).  If I get this car at invoice price I would be paying only $29,020 so my monthly payments would drop to $490.73.  A savings yes, but still a far cry from $229 per month advertised price.  The other number that could fluctuate is the money factor.  This number will not be available in a newspaper ad.  But, it’s not important to detail what this figure is, or what it does but I can tell you that it is highly doubtful that Edmunds would use a money factor number that was incorrect to such an extreme to significantly affect the monthly payment calculation.      

So, it is safe to say that if I want to lease a 2008 Mazda CX-9 AWD Sport for 24 months with $3,995 down (what I saw in that dealer’s newspaper ad) I need to expect to pay approximately $500 per month, a price NOT anywhere close to the advertised $229 payment.  In closing, I find it just as absurd that a car dealership advertises a $229 payment for a car that will really cost people approximately $500 a month.  Dealers do this because they want their newspaper ad to get you in their doors, and then they’ll try and fit you into a car you can afford.  Now, with the information in this article you can take any car dealer’s newspaper ad and quickly determine the REAL lease price for any car (it took me less than 5 minutes to get on Edmunds site and calculate the real monthly payment)!    

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